Ruffled Panel Top Sew Along-Part 4

Yeah, you have made it to the last step! Today we are going to finish the neckline and the hem, and we are going to add our sleeves. I will show you two types of sleeves for this top and two types of hem lines.

First I am going to show you an option for putting in sleeves that you cut too short. Most of the time I would recommend re-cutting the sleeve but if you don't want to try this.

Step 1: I used my bias tape to finish off the end of the sleeve and I added ric rac underneath for a cute detail.




Step 2: With right sides facing together sew the shoulders of the front and the back together.
Then open the shirt up to set the sleeve.
With the right side together place the sleeve against the arm hold and pin in place. Now since this sleeve is too small here is what you can do:

First sleeve option:


Using a loose stitch, stitch around the arm hold on the shirt. Then pull on string making a ruffle. Push the ruffled section towards the shoulder seam until your armhole fits the size of the sleeve. Then pin it in place.
Sew the sleeve down to the top and finish your seams with a serger or zig zag stitch.
Then flip the shirt right side out. This is what it will look like.

Now you need to use a loose stitch around the neckline and pull the string creating the ruffle. Then push the ruffle towards the shoulder seams.
Step 2: Adding the bias tape to the neckline. Start by turning the bias tape inside out. Sew it together back stitching a few times. Cut as close to the stitches as possible and then flip it back over. This makes a nice edge to slip over the neckline.



Pin the bias tape in place all around the neckline (use a lot of pins).

Repeat the beginning of this step with the end of the bias tape to finish it off.Sew down the bias tape to the neckline.
Now for the other sleeve option.

Step 1: Hem the bottom of the sleeve by turning over the edge two times. Then sew it in place. Next you are going to add the skinny elastic. I don't pin it down just hold it in place. First measure your model's arm for the length of the elastic. Then place the elastic where you want it on the sleeve, about 1/4 inch from the hem line. Pull the elastic tight and sew all the way down the sleeve using a zig zag stitch but make sure you don't stitch on the elastic.
Here is what it will look like when you are done.


Step 2: Set the sleeve starting at the shoulder seam and the middle of the sleeve.
Then pin all around the sleeve to the arm hole. Sew it into place.
Here is your finished sleeves. Add the bias to the neckline using the steps above.
Now for the hemlines

For the flower top I am adding a lace layer. First I did a zig zag stitch across the bottom of the shirt.
Then I sewed up the sides of the shirt all the way through the sleeves, back stitch at each end. (don't forget to finish off your seams with a serger or zig zag stitch).
Now it looks like a actual shirt.
Next I pinned the lace to the bottom of the shirt and top stitched it to the hemline.
The shirt is DONE!




Now for the other hemline:

Start with your hem fabric. I cut two strips measuring 4 inches wide and the length of the front of the shirt and back of the shirt. Fold the hem fabric in half and press.
Now pin the hem fabric to the right side of the top panels with raw edges touching.
Sew it in place and zig zag over the raw edge.
Now press the seam down. You can leave it like this or you can press the hem towards the neckline and then flip the fabric back over making a cuff. Top stitch the cuff down at the bottom of the shirt.


Now stitch up the sides including the sleeves and back stitch at each end.
The shirt felt a little plan so I added 2 bows to the front stitching by hand. Now you are done.





Same shirt two ways. It was fun sewing with all of you.

Ruffled Panel Top Sew Along-Part 3

For this part of the sew along I will teach how to make the flower front top and bias tape.

First for the flower. There are many ways of making this, this is just how I like to do it.

Step 1: Take your strip that you made (at least 64" long). Fold it in half wrong sides together, press it really well, and sew a loose stitch in down the raw side leaving thread at the ends for pulling. It doesn't matter that there is open ends or raw edges because they will be tucked under. Now you are going to pull on of the thread pieces to create a ruffle.

Step 2: Lay your front piece down and figure out where you want your outside of your flower to start. Tuck the end underneath and begin rotating the ruffle around in a circular motion layering the ruffle on top. I like to start at the bottom and fix the flower in place the way I want it before I pin it in place.


Tuck the end under and pin it in place.Step 3: Now we are going to sew the flower down to the front of the top. Beginning in the middle use a regular stitch and follow the flower around in the circular motion.I try to sew directly on top of the loose stitch I made for the ruffling. One trick is to lift the edges as you sew and pull the pins as you sew. At the end back stitch so it stays in place. Now your flower is attached.
Finally press the flower down for a smashed look.

Now a short tutorial on making bias tape by hand. You can use pre-made bias tape (which I would recommend if you can find the right color and don't want to use a print.) Normally I would just buy white bias tape but for this purpose I will teach you to make it. Please ignore my gross ironing board cover. I have been meaning to make a new one but that project is on the back burner.

Step 1: Start with a long piece 2 inches wide. Fold it in half wrong sides together and press.

Step 2: Open it back up and fold the raw edge towards your middle crease. Then do the same to the other side. Press them down.
Step 3: Fold it back in half with the raw edges in the crease.

Now you have your bias tape.
Now your bias tape is ready for the final part tomorrow.

Tomorrow we will add the sleeves (2 different kinds), finish the neckline, and finish the bottom. Thanks to everyone that is sewing along and let me know if you have any questions.